Sitting on al-Nijmeh taxi depot, waiting for the mini-bus to the Allenby Bridge where we cross into Jordan. Arabs, not Jews , seem to run the taxi services here, at least, taxis for the people. This is one of those taxis that leaves when it is full. So we sit. The hotel offered the idea of a private car to the bridge, for $80 bit this mini-bus only costs $10. O figured that the difference will come in handy later.
I'm surrounded by older Arab women and Arab music. Tres tipique.
The tourist lifestyle makes it quite easy to insulate yourself from the Arab world of Jerusalem. Everyone assumes that you would rather avoid all the "unpleasantness."
For all the Jewish self-satisfaction about the "return" of Jerusalem to them, I don't think we've seen the last of regeime change.
Well, we're full and we're off.
Uhoh. Everyones taking great pains to buckle seatbelts.
One of the women just offered me a Hall's coughdrop.
Just went through into Jordan.
Costs $50 to leave Israel.
I don't think that this is the way most people get to Petra.
There's a lot to be said for having the paperwork in order.
This land is desolate.
Not having a tourguide to handle all the protocol certainly requires staying alert to many more nuanced interactions, like the fact that the bus driver just took away my passport. Deb's a lot better at making sense of mildly inscrutable situations.
I sat next to an English couple who were talking to some Americans. We all went through the gates together. Then they split up. They hugged each other, probably at the instigation of the Americans, because the English woman exclaimed, " I don't think I have ever hugged so many people in my life!"
I went on to look for transportation into Amman and was discovered by both a cab driver and a bus driver. The cab driver won the bidding war; the bus driver looked disgruntled. 7 dinars/ 10 dollars, not bad. As I got in the cab I told him his tire needed air. He said that if I hire him to drive to Petra , he will put air in tire. He said," I know Americans like to be safe". I told him it was good for him too. Anyway, on the way into town, he put air into the tire. I haven't decided if I want him to drive me all the way to Petra. He said if we don't make it, I don't pay him. Hmmm.
The cab is decrepit. Somewhat beat up. On the highway, we pass the English couple in a nice new car with a driver.
They are probably not going to Petra in a cab like this one.
Checking into the Marriott, it's funny to see, where everywhere else you see pictures of King Hussein and his son, here the pictures are of J. W. Marriott and his son, the ones that are in every Marriott that I've ever been in.
I told the concierge that I wanted to walk down to the Roman amphitheater , to which he replied "not possible" to which I thanked him and walked there. Truely, you have to be careful what decisions you want other people to make for you. Someone's always willing, especially if there's money to be made.
On the other hand, you can't always say "no". The more the traveller, the more the cleverer.
Anyway, as I decided to return to the hotel, I opted for a taxi.
Khaled (as it turns out his name is) comes out of nowhere; they can just tell.
He says to pay him amythig I like, nothing even. Uhuh, we settle on 3 dinars before leaving the amphitheater. He's a good guy. He asks what I do and I tell him my job is to be a tourist so I can hire a guy like him. His job is to be a cab driver and my job is to pay him, that my wife sends me money so I can pass it along to him.
He days that I am funny guy and that he likes me. We are both laughing. He showse a picture of his wife and daughter on his mobile and I show the picture of Deb," very beautiful " and I have this picture of Rosella, in the red dress, and he says "you are indeed a lucky man".
He says that he gives all his money to his wife.
I tell him that my wife sends me money so that I can give it to him so that he can, in turn, give it to his wife. We decided it would be simpler to give her address to Deb.
We laughed some more.
We started to talk about how much a cab costs. 41000 Jordanian dinars. He said that if I gave him theoney, he would paye back in 8 years. I suggested tha he could also, the next te I return to Amman , he could give me free taxi rides. I told him that I don't have that much money right now, but I will ask my wife to work harder.
We laughed again.
By this time we had reached the hotel and he said, as I got out, "I think we could be good friends".
This guy at the hotel tells me I need to try Jordanian wine "baitutti", which is made here, unlike the Jordanian wine in restaurants, where they buy grapes from France or S. A. and then make the wine here. The real stuff, "baitutti", you have to go to the store and order and they bring it the next day. Somehow, they make it in their homes. Maybe in Petra.
I hope this all comes across, Deb, as a testament to my love for you.
I've decided to go with the taxi guy, instead of renting a car myself, partly because I would like to give the bucks directly to a local guy instead of a big car company. I'll try to keep him on the right side of the highway.
Deb, reading an article on how couples stay committed and the important thing is to do "challenging and important things together". That's what I feel about this trip and this journal. It feels like I taking this trip with you.
My love for you is the most important part of my life. Period. Double period.
Can you believe that this hotel has no wireless Internet ? I told them that it was ridiculous. They said everyone is complaining.
Geez another wedding. I hope this video comes through. No Internet.
Just to mix it up, the groom is dancing with the men and the bride dances with the women. And then they are both together.
I asked one of the guys in the hotel if this is a big( it looks big) wedding or a small one. "Small". Whew.
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